What you need to know before travelling to Iraq?

This month we've invited one of our business affiliates, Untamed Borders, to share their expertise on travelling to Iraq in a guest blog. You can find out more about Untamed Borders at the end of this article.

In recent history Iraq will have cemented itself in many minds due to war and conflict, with the country’s invasion of Kuwait, the first Gulf War, the Second Gulf War, the fall of Saddam Hussein and the rise and fall of the ISIS caliphate.

However, Iraq has far more to offer than just the troubling headlines. It was home to some of the earliest civilisations, boasting a multitude of wonderful ancient sites, along with snow-capped mountains in the north, marshlands in the south, bustling cities and a rich tapestry of communities and faiths.

It’s now experiencing a period of relative stability and it’s becoming much safer to visit as a tourist, although it still has its challenges.

The adventure travel company, Untamed Borders, is one of our affiliates and they’ve organised group and private trips to Iraq since 2016.

Untamed Borders have put together this Iraq guide, built on eight years of first-hand knowledge, to help you navigate around Iraq.

What is there to see and do in Iraq?

One of Iraq’s greatest draws for international visitors is the amount of ancient history, which can be found dotted around the country. The nation was home to some of the earliest civilisations, when it was formerly ancient Mesopotamia, and you can find the remains of the Sumerians and Babylonians throughout modern day Iraq.

The beautiful scenery and natural wonders in Iraqi Kurdistan are also major tourist attractions, with the region currently enjoying a boom in visitor numbers. In the country’s north you find the stunning Zagros Mountains, where along with great hiking terrain, waterfalls and ancient villages, you can also ski.

The Korek Mountain Resort attracted between 3,000 and 4,000 people a day during the recent winter season and the nearby Choman is also popular. The Kurdish regional capital of Erbil receives many visitors too, due to its vibrant feel and ancient Citadel, one of the longest continually inhabited places on earth.

There are also the two great rivers, the Tigris and Euphrates, which carve through Iraq and lead to the marshlands in the country’s south. The nation’s diverse mix of communities and religions, along with the famous Iraqi hospitality are aspects many visitors embrace and remember fondly as well.

How has Iraq changed over recent years?

Depending on where you are in Iraq, the security considerations are different. However, since the campaign to clear ISIS out of large parts of the country (including their stronghold in Mosul), things have improved a lot.

The horrors of ISIS controlling a large portion of the country are now moving into history, although there is still a small terrorism risk. Despite this, it is now safer to move around many parts of Iraq and that has opened it up to an increase in tourism.

This is particularly the case in Iraqi Kurdistan, where the security situation is much better and tourism has spiked there over the past 5 years. 7 million tourists visited this part of the country in 2023, up by one million from 2022.

Is there any area which is still particularly unsafe?

Iraq still poses many risks to the traveller. One issue is that there is an array of different security, military and paramilitary groups managing areas in different locations across the country.

They all report to the government, but in reality, they often have different agendas and interests to look out for. Due to this, some regions have security personal that are stricter than others or less comfortable dealing with international visitors.

This can make travel around Iraq unpredictable, particularly if you are moving between regions. Booking a trip with an experienced guide can help mitigate these issues and ensure things run more smoothly.

There are certain areas where you need to avoid or take extra care, due to the security situation. These include:

• The Iraq-Syria border region, in the West.
• The North-West border between Iraqi Kurdistan and Turkey.
• Areas which previously had a high ISIS presence, such as the city of Mosul.

What safety precautions can people take in Iraq?

1. Travel with an experienced tour company

Travelling with an experienced tour company, such as Untamed Borders, is a sensible way to reduce the level of risk.

Particularly with the differing safety framework across the country, there can be challenges to overcome. Experienced guides will know each particular region’s limitations or difficulties and help you avoid areas which could be dangerous or have a higher level of risk.

2. Avoid border areas

Both the Syrian and Turkish borders with Iraq are areas where the level of risk is much higher.

There are regular bouts of cross border skirmishes between the Turkish and Kurdish forces, with some areas close to the border, on the Iraqi side, controlled by the PKK armed Kurdish group. This group is deemed a terrorist organisation by some nations, however, they are also the group who helped stem the tide of ISIS and bring about the demise of the caliphate.

Staying clear of areas in PKK control is wise, as you could be deemed a threat, and the area is often used for armed training.

The Syria-Iraq border, in the west, consists of a large expanse of desert. When ISIS were pushed back out of their stronghold of Mosul, some retreated to the desert region, which is notoriously porous and hard to manage.

Following the Syrian Civil War, the security situation on the Syrian side of the border has diminished considerably too and understanding who is in the region between the two countries is hard to identify. The level of risk is much higher in this area as result.

3. Be careful of mined areas

Due to decades of conflict, there are large areas of minefields in certain parts of the country and despite the work of Iraqi and international groups to help demine the nation, there are still many unidentified.

Pay clear attention to signage warning of areas of potential mines and don’t stray from paths if instructed or go to areas highlighting active mines. This is certainly the case in some parts of Iraqi Kurdistan, which although is popular with hikers, still has areas where mines haven’t been cleared.

You can increase your safety level further by only going trekking or hiking with an experienced guide.

4. Don't enter war damaged buildings

Wearing the appropriate dress for the locations you are visiting is a good way to show respect to the Iraqi community, but also a way of staying safe.

Speak to your experienced tour guide if you have any questions about how is best to dress in certain areas or situations. For example, you will be required to wear long trousers and a head covering for women in the important Shia holy sites of Karbala and Najaf.

There is a spread of different faiths and communities across Iraq, so the requirements can differ depending where you are. For example, in Iraqi Kurdistan there is also a big Christian community, including in Erbil and in certain places it is ok to drink alcohol. This differs considerably to Federal Iraq, where you can’t.

5. Respect local customs

We advise all our guests to be extremely cautious about taking photos of government sites and buildings, along with military and police facilities.

If you aren’t sure whether the location you want to photograph is ok to snap, make sure to ask your guide – they will know about the regional sensitivities.

Taking photos of sensitive sites, which can include power stations, dams and transport hubs, can cause problems and you may be deemed a threat.

How does travel to Iraqi Kurdistan and Federal Iraq differ?

There are different visa arrangements in Iraqi Kurdistan and Federal Iraq (the south, which includes Baghdad).

Iraqi Kurdistan

• If you enter the country via Iraqi Kurdistan, most likely the city of Erbil, many nationalities can gain a visa on arrival.
• This visa on arrival is valid for 30 days, but only for travel in the Kurdish north of the country. You can’t travel south into Federal Iraq.

Federal Iraq

• To travel in the rest of Iraq, most international visitors are likely to enter through Baghdad Airport.
• There is also a visa on arrival process in Baghdad for many nationalities and, if granted, you will be able to stay in Iraq for 30 days.
• However, if you receive your visa in Baghdad, you will be able to travel across the whole country, including in Iraqi Kurdistan.

Which countries are eligible for an Iraq visa?

Citizens of the EU, UK, Switzerland, USA, Canada, Russia, China, South Korea, Japan, Australia & New Zealand can apply for an Iraqi visa on arrival, among other nationalities.

For Peace of Mind Even in the Most Unpredictable Places

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